WatchIQ

Longines
Longines Admiral GMT 'Coke' (Ref. 2304-1)
Market Estimate
~$1,850
Specifications
Market Range

Longines
Longines Admiral GMT 'Coke' (Ref. 2304-1)
Market Estimate ~ $1,850
Market Range
Specifications
Executive Overview
The Longines Admiral GMT, specifically the late 20th-century iterations featuring the iconic 'Coke' bezel, represents a pivotal era for the Saint-Imier brand. Positioned as a high-performance traveler's watch, this model bridges the gap between Longines' historic aviation heritage and the modern requirements of the global executive. Characterized by its bold bi-color 24-hour bezel—rendered in a striking red and black split—it allows for the simultaneous tracking of two time zones, a complication that remains among the most practical in horology. This specific reference is highly regarded by collectors for its distinctive 'five-star' Admiral branding, which historically signified the highest grade of Longines movements. Unlike the more ubiquitous GMTs of the era, the Admiral offers a unique aesthetic language, featuring sharp, angular lugs and a robust case profile that distinguishes it from its Swiss contemporaries. It exists as a testament to Longines' ability to produce specialized tool watches that maintain an air of mid-century elegance. For the discerning collector, the Admiral GMT 'Coke' serves as a sophisticated alternative to more mainstream luxury GMT models, offering genuine heritage, a reliable automatic caliber, and a color scheme that has become one of the most sought-after palettes in the secondary market.
Technical Architecture
At the heart of the Longines Admiral GMT lies a modified self-winding movement, typically based on the reliable ETA 2893-2 architecture, customized by Longines to meet their rigorous performance standards. This caliber provides a quick-set date function and an independently adjustable GMT hand, allowing the wearer to track local and home time with ease. The case is meticulously crafted from 316L stainless steel, featuring a combination of brushed and polished surfaces that highlight the watch's geometric complexity. The most striking technical feature is the bidirectional rotating bezel; its 'Coke' insert is designed for high visibility, with the red section representing daylight hours and the black section representing night. The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, often treated with an anti-reflective coating to ensure legibility under varying light conditions. The dial itself features applied baton indices and luminous 'pencil' hands, complemented by a red-tipped GMT hand that provides a sharp contrast against the matte black dial surface. Water resistance is typically rated to 100 meters, supported by a screw-down crown and a solid case back, making it a truly versatile sports-luxury hybrid capable of withstanding the rigors of international travel.
Historical Context
The 'Admiral' name has been a staple of the Longines catalog since the late 1950s, originally introduced to denote watches of superior precision and build quality. By the early 1990s, when this GMT variant was introduced, Longines was redefining its position within the newly formed Swatch Group, focusing on its 'Elegance, Heritage, and Performance' pillars. This model was a direct response to the burgeoning demand for high-end traveler watches in an increasingly globalized world. It replaced the more traditional, dress-oriented Admirals of the 1970s with a design language that leaned heavily into the 'tool watch' aesthetic while retaining the brand's signature refinement. The use of the five-star logo on the dial is a nostalgic nod to the 1960s Admiral models, which were among the most accurate mechanical watches of their time. This specific generation of the Admiral GMT helped pave the way for the modern Spirit and Heritage collections, serving as a design bridge between the utilitarian flight instruments of the early 20th century and the contemporary luxury sport watches Longines produces today. Its production run was relatively limited compared to the brand's core lines, contributing to its status as a 'cult classic' among neo-vintage enthusiasts.
Market Intelligence
The market for neo-vintage Longines, particularly GMT models from the Admiral series, has seen a steady appreciation in value over the last five years. As the prices for iconic GMT models from brands like Rolex and Tudor have reached levels that exclude many entry-level collectors, the Longines Admiral 'Coke' has emerged as a high-value proposition. Demand is driven primarily by the 'Coke' bezel aesthetic, which is currently enjoying a resurgence in popularity. Secondary market behavior shows that well-preserved examples with original bracelets or period-correct leather straps trade quickly, often within days of listing. Supply dynamics are relatively tight; while not a 'limited edition' in the modern sense, the production window for the red-and-black bezel variant was narrow, leading to a scarcity of high-quality examples. Brand strength for Longines remains exceptionally high, supported by their massive global retail footprint and deep historical archives, which provides a safety net for long-term value retention. From an investment perspective, this model is considered a 'stable grower,' offering low volatility compared to hyper-inflated modern steel sports watches, while providing a significant 'cool factor' that appeals to both seasoned horologists and new enthusiasts.



