The Rolex Datejust Pearlmaster 39 represents the pinnacle of the brand's jewelry-making expertise, blending the precision of the Datejust line with the opulence of high horology gem-setting. This specific model, characterized by its stunning 'Sertie' diamond-paved dial and a gradient sapphire bezel, serves as a masterclass in chromatic transition. Rolex utilizes its in-house gemologists to source only the finest stones, ensuring that each sapphire on the bezel flows seamlessly from deep orange to yellow or green hues, depending on the specific reference variation. Collectors view the Pearlmaster as a distinct category within the Rolex catalog; it is not merely a watch with added stones, but a dedicated jewelry watch line with a unique case and bracelet architecture. This model exists to cater to a clientele that demands the reliability of a Rolex movement paired with the aesthetic impact of a high-jewelry piece. Its presence on the wrist is undeniable, offering a 39mm diameter that bridges the gap between traditional feminine sizes and modern unisex preferences. The combination of 18k yellow gold and the pavé dial makes it one of the most visually dense and luxurious expressions of the Datejust heritage ever produced, ensuring its status as a trophy piece for high-net-worth collectors.

At the heart of this Pearlmaster 39 is the Calibre 3235, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. This movement is a masterpiece of modern engineering, featuring the Chronergy escapement made of nickel-phosphorus, which offers high energy efficiency and resistance to magnetic interference. The architecture includes a Parachrom hairspring, which is ten times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The case is crafted from a solid block of 18k yellow gold, cast in Rolex's own foundry to ensure the highest metal purity and luster. The most striking technical feat is the bezel, set with 48 baguette-cut sapphires in a gradient pattern. Each stone is meticulously selected and set by hand to create a perfect color transition. The dial is 'paved,' meaning the entire surface is covered in brilliant-cut diamonds, leaving only the date window at 3 o'clock and the applied Roman numerals visible. Protecting this artistry is a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with a Cyclops lens for date magnification. The Pearlmaster bracelet, characterized by its rounded five-piece links, is exclusive to this collection and features a concealed Crownclasp, providing a seamless aesthetic that feels more like a piece of jewelry than a standard watch strap.

The Pearlmaster was first introduced in 1992 as a new, ultra-luxurious interpretation of the Lady-Datejust and Datejust. For decades, it served as the canvas for Rolex's most extravagant gem-setting experiments. In 2015, Rolex expanded the line with the Pearlmaster 39, moving away from the smaller traditional sizes to meet the growing global demand for larger, more statement-oriented timepieces. This transition marked a significant moment in the brand's history, as it integrated the then-new Calibre 3235 movement—which would eventually become the standard for the Datejust 41 and Sea-Dweller—into a jewelry-first model. This specific 'Sertie' edition with the gradient bezel followed the success of the 'Rainbow' Daytona, reflecting a broader trend in high horology where colored gemstones are used to create 'spectrum' effects. By placing such a high-complication movement inside a gem-set case, Rolex bridged the gap between their professional tool-watch reputation and their status as a premier jeweler. The Pearlmaster 39 has since been phased out of the primary catalog in favor of gem-set Day-Dates, making these specific 39mm references highly sought after on the secondary market for their unique proportions and historical 'peak' of the Pearlmaster lineage.